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For a century, western civilization changed Chinese manner of dress, today, people around the world are wearing the similar garment. Chinese dress traditional in where? Cheongsam? Outfit? The hanfu? The future of Chinese manner of dress and where? Costume Ze thinks, scholars yuan ZhongShanZhuang still qipao and China today is the best traditions of costumes.
B: after a hundred years of evolution, the Chinese dress basically has fully integrate language-the approaches. In fact people all over the world to dress are now almost (ex-include outside). Traditional dress elements erosion, no pity in your opinion?
Y: certainly is a regretful. In the process of globalization, there are many things in the economic field can unification, but the field of culture globalization leads to cultural too onefold. I think clothing or should keep different geographic and ethnic diversity. However, in turn, also should admit, industrial civilization tide is not stopped. We Chinese traditional clothes, is basically in agriculture civilization based on generation, wide robe big sleeve doesn't conform to the trend of industrial production, so inevitably will die.
B: you mean, if China that year and headed into the industrial age,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], possibly by western countries of our national costume impact, is?
Y: this problem I enjoyed it. If China that year and headed into the industrial age, I think our traditional clothing will also experience improved, may finally is others learn from us. Nevertheless, I cannot imagine below this kind of circumstance, can produce what kind of clothes.
B: in your book, wrote in cheongsam craft extinction, production quality declines, now again no suitable wearing occasions, thus qipao in real life and no widespread popularity, instead become restaurant dining room attendant overalls. Why in Japan, we saw the women will still wearing kimono, but in China,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], the Chinese dress vitality was unable to continue?
Y: gown and cheongsam be eliminated, its reason has great political factors. If not of we all know the reasons, these two kinds of clothing is possible enmities. If continued to come down, so they're in current China's role, maybe just with Japan as the kimono. In Japan, the traditional kimono without interruption, it today or be used as a dress to wear.
B: according to current situation look,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], because people would have given up traditional Chinese costume, a lot of this field of process cannot irretrievably lost. In a kind of dress culture already no longer appear in real-life situations, you think how to keep it?
Y: 1949 of 30 years, countries and people are very poor, in our life, clothing demands that changed, social coarse promoting equality, simple, many clothing technology and craft also recession and disappeared. After the reform and opening, gradually we found some process, but because the eager for quick success and instant benefit corresponding products have many are vulgar. For example, nor is ancient Chinese a silk craft, also called "given.it broken weft", since song and yuan periods, has been one of the royal royal fabric. An excellent paintings, embroiderers in day time also finish only a few centimeters nor just. Because of this process is mainly for the royal service, during the qing dynasty collapse after use of person is less and less, after liberation, nor a basic declined. While the belt is to use nor a kimono made, so after the reform and opening, this one process and been getting warmer, but today's skill, grade, quality are unable to reach the level of Ming and qing dynasties.
B: now also somebody in big events choice was in cheongsam, outfit. As a professional researchers look, people today have in ancient costume in wearing what common error? Craftsmanship this way?
Y: traditional Chinese costume has many basic elements. For example: the right placket, also called YouRen. Since 2000 Chinese traditional clothes, both men and women are YouRen, namely the left of the skirt of right build. Ren is left to the conference semifinals dress. Nowadays many outfit, but according to western clothing styles, male, female of left right placket placket. For example: now we common outfit and its fabric of the inn was very striking, bright beautiful, in fact, traditional men's fashion fabrics USES are AnHua, is very elegant. ChenDanQing once and I chat, calls the shroud outfit are now - only shroud used only such designs.
I have been very hope China official can appear looking for creating a conforms to the Chinese people's characteristics of etiquette and clothing. But I also know that, in a short time to work out a mass of generally accepted for casual clothing form, is unrealistic. In this respect, is unlikely to completely with the system or laws to regulate the dress, but through the folk guidance. I think in the past 100 years of China's best costume is cheongsam and ZhongShanZhuang. In the evolution of qipao also passed dozens of years, from the beginning of the 20th century to 1940s, became today we known look - if not for political reasons, the Chinese dress today may have evolved a new form. Its creator is public,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], not a designer. I think, the Chinese people what to wear, this is can't expect a master can solve the problem.
B: why did you choose the ZhongShanZhuang, rather than outfit?
Y: the so-called outfit, including the "tang" word for many people caused misleading. In fact it has nothing to do with the tang dynasty. Outfit is mainly an overseas Chinese wearing clothes. Because they live in Chinatown, profess tang, so this kind of dress called outfit. Actually, it's prototype is in China during the period of the republic of popular a kind of LiLing, dish of buttons Chinese wear, wearer is below the labouring people. This kind of dress actually and suit many similarities, such as it is installed sleeve rather than even the sleeve. And it in late qing dynasty and the republic of China period there was, to date, there is no obvious creativity.
B: the Chinese elements in recent years often appear in Europe and the design of fashion brands. Do you think Chinese ancient costume elements of what is more suitable for, easier to coherence to contemporary garment?
Y: comparison for using suitable elements have LiLing, plate buttons, placket form, and a few adornment element. Today's western stylist also often during design with Chinese dress elements, some may be just to see, I think it also above reproach. However, China's current designer for our traditional costume courtyard-shaped actually also don't understand, so everybody is a very vulgar in do.
B: for some folk organizations launched the hanfu regeneration activities,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], what's your opinion? Exactly what they can to contemporary people's manner of dress caused much influence?
Y: I and some advocacy groups exchange. Hanfu To begin with, I think they really cute, but later I found out, they went into the nationalism narrow erroneous zone. In their history chart no yuan and qing position. Any country, in the long history, must with other ethnic cultural exchanges, if a cultural purer than pure, there will inevitably will perish. So, blindly restoration hanfu,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], in my view, is not realistic. Clothing should advocate improvement innovation, otherwise, the posterity as long as the ancestors laundry to wear will do.
B: today we have been concerned, when will China a masterful designer. At this point, you have what I expect?
Y: I don't quite agree with the present appears the so-called "master". Today's China hasn't can be called masters of designers. The future may appear in the best designers, but today's age atmosphere more diverse, like Christian Dior in that the effective and influential word is impossible came back again, fashion won't let a person to decide skirt length. Today's designer can only serve a crowd. I repeat, we don't think that a person can change a national dress. Clothing reform, need from go up and down, common choice.
B: according to your observation, Chinese people today start doing this option?
Y: it seems not now.
Ze yuan, was born in Shanghai in 1948. Graduated from suzhou silk int, m.a., master of philosophy, Beijing apparel college professors. Engaged in the clothing history, traditional costume culture art rescue and design aspects of teaching research. And his wife HuYue collaborative book centenary clothes - 20th century Chinese clothing rheological unfeasibility from political, social and cultural Angle three-dimensional way Outlines the Chinese dress phenomenon of 100 years times and in August by sanglian publishing.
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