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Wysłany: Czw 14:38, 27 Sty 2011 Temat postu: breitling replica watches L4P Review™ De Audemars |
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Saw the reviews posted by Justin:Norcal and figured I would spend a little time reviewing some of my favorites..
Audemars Piguet, Royal Oak 15202 "Jumbo"
Brand History:
The Audemars Piguet story begins in 1875. In that time 23 year old watchmaker Jules Audemars and future partner Edward-August Piguet,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], just 21 years of age, met in the Vallee de Joux. Both had learned the watchmaker's trade after finishing public school in their hometown of Le Brassus by training at the bench and returned to the Vallee de Joux to find jobs in the local watchmaking industry. Jules Audemars was soon producing raw components for watch movements and Edward-August Piguet sought employment as a "repasseur" (a master watchmaker who performs the final regulation on a watch). Shortly after their meeting in 1875, the two talented watchmakers decided to join forces and founded the firm that would someday come to be known as Audemars, Piguet et Cie.
The Watch:
While Royal Oak models are plentiful, this review will focus on the "15202" model only.. this model also known as the "Jumbo" was first designed decades ago.. since then the overall design has stayed the same and only slight changes have been made (caseback/dial/clasp/etc).. overall it has looked and felt the same over the years.
MSRP being $18,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych],400 (for steel) most would choose the "15300" model released a few years back which looks similar and only costs around $12,900, but the 15202 is quite a different beast. (Rose model $43,700: Yellow model, $39,300)
equipped with the calibre 2121, produced long ago between patek/vacheron/audemars this movement is the elite workhorse of the finer audemars models. One of the interesting bits of this movement is the winding rotor is not equipped with bearings in the center but instead is loosely held in center and rotates on ruby bearings situated around the outside of the rotor... the rotor has a ring that rolls across them and a 21c gold rotor that gravity forces to wind the watch. this movement also has very fine attention to detail in the movement that one can see easily thru its display back.
The Exterior of the watch also shows the fine detailing Audemars Piguet is very proud of, the crisp lines between polished and brushed surfaces. Not nearly as easy as one might think, all brushed and polished surfaces are done by hand.
the 15202 only comes in 3 dial colors and 3 metal variations:
15202ST.0.0944ST.01 (Steel,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], white dial)
15202ST.0.0944ST.02 (Steel, blue/grey dial)
15202ST.0.0944ST.03 (Steel, blue dial)
15202BA.0.0944BA.01 (Yellow Gold, white dial)
15202OR.0.0944OR.01 (Rose Gold, white dial)
all 39mm in diameter excluding crown.. steel model weighs 106 grams and gold models are unknown.
Model does not have a seconds hand, and date is not quick set (time must be wobbled back to 10pm and forward past midnight to switch date)
Dial is a "micro tapissarie" which are small squares almost "relieved" from the dial from use of a CNC... the surface of the dial is very detailed and you can see the cuts instead of being made side to side and up and down were made by the tooling revolving around the dial in a circle.
Hands and Dial both carry luminous material, which is not generously applied but just enough to see the time at night, luminous material lasts quite a while at night. (super luminova)
All Models are equipped with a single folding deployment clasp with spring loaded slide lock,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], older models do not have the "AP" logo clasp,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], while newer models do. All models are equipped with bracelets and straps are not made nor available for this model.
Box is made of Mahogany and lined with leather, the booklets are generous with information and each watch not only individually numbered on the back No. but each movement number, case number are recorded by Audemars and printed on each booklet accompanying the watch. Warranty of 2 years given unless watch is registered online and then 3 years are given. with 3 year warranty a water resistance service is given for free if used within first 24 months.
My Thoughts:
i feel this model is the heart and soul of the royal oak collection, a piece that has remained almost unchanged over decades and continues to inspire new watches that are still in high demand. this piece is produced as a limited production model and is very rare to be seen in showcases as most do not appreciate the added price for less watch... this watch will forever remain a keeper in my collection.
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